By the DC Fire & Security engineering team — installing and maintaining fire and security systems since 2010. Updated June 2026.
Any aperture in a fire door must be made with fire-rated components installed per the door's certification: fire-resisting glazing in tested systems for vision panels, intumescent-lined letterplates, rated spy holes. A standard letterbox, ordinary glass, or any cat flap (no fire-rated cat flap exists) voids the door. The rule: never cut a fire door outside its certified scope.
Glazed apertures are fine when they're part of the tested door design: fire-resisting glass (Georgian wired, ceramics like Pyran/Keralite, or laminated intumescent types such as Pyrostop for insulation ratings) in the certified glazing system — beading, intumescent liners and fixings exactly per specification. The recurring failure: a broken vision panel reglazed by a general glazier with toughened or float glass, visually identical, worthless in fire. Glazing stamps in the corner of the pane are what inspectors hunt with a torch; unstamped glass in a fire door goes on the remedial schedule.
Certification covers a tested configuration — leaf, frame, seals, ironmongery, apertures. Cutting outside it (new glazing where none was tested, oversized letterplate apertures, trimming beyond allowances) ends the certification, whoever does it. Within scope, work should follow the manufacturer's instructions, use rated components, and be done by competent installers who document it — certificated fire door installers can also perform certain licensed modifications under scheme rules. For flat entrance doors especially, the cheap path (modify on site) and the defensible path (doorset specified with the aperture from manufacture) are different decisions — we spec doorsets with letterplates and viewers built in for exactly this reason.
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